In this article · 12 sections
At a glance
- Max altitude
- North ABC about 4,190 m vs ABC 4,130 m
Annapurna I has two base camps that trekkers talk about. The classic Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) sits in the Annapurna Sanctuary, north of Pokhara. The North Annapurna Base Camp (North ABC) sits on the other side of the mountain, in Myagdi, on the route the French expedition used in 1950.
Both end under the same 8,000-meter peak. But they feel like two completely different trips. I walked North ABC in 2 days, from Humkhola to the old base camp and back. Here is how it compares with the classic ABC trek, so you can pick the right one for your time, budget and fitness.
North ABC vs ABC: Quick Verdict
- Choose North ABC if you want a short, raw, less developed trek with a glacier lake and you are fit enough for a fast climb.
- Choose ABC if you want comfortable tea houses, a gentler climb over more days and the famous 360-degree view in the Annapurna Sanctuary.
North ABC vs ABC Comparison Table
| North ABC | ABC (classic, south side) | |
|---|---|---|
| District | Myagdi, west side of Annapurna I | Kaski, inside the Annapurna Sanctuary |
| Base camp altitude | About 4,190 m (old camp about 4,310 m) | 4,130 m |
| Trek starts | Humkhola, via Tatopani or Beni | Roadheads near Pokhara such as Nayapul, Ghandruk or Jhinu |
| Days on foot (return) | 2 to 4 days | Usually 5 to 8 days |
| Trail | Newer, rough, steep altitude gain | Well-made trail with thousands of stone steps |
| Accommodation | Simple homestays, seasonal tea houses, tents | Established tea houses with long menus |
| Big views | Annapurna I north face, Tilicho Peak, Nilgiri range | Annapurna I south face, Annapurna South, Machhapuchhre, Hiunchuli |
| Highlights | Phutphute waterfall, Panchakunda Lake, 1950 Herzog route | Annapurna Sanctuary, Machhapuchhre Base Camp, Jhinu hot springs |
| Getting there | Long bus ride plus a hired off-road jeep | Short drive from Pokhara |
| Crowds | Quieter most of the year; busy with Nepali trekkers in spring | Busy in peak seasons, very international |
| Permits | ACAP; foreigners also TIMS and a licensed guide | Same |
Location and History
ABC is the trek most people picture when they hear “Annapurna”. It climbs the Modi Khola valley from the Pokhara side into the Annapurna Sanctuary, a high amphitheatre ringed by peaks. It has been one of Nepal’s classic treks for decades.
North ABC climbs the Mistri Khola valley in Myagdi. This is the side Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal approached from when they made the first ascent of Annapurna I on 3 June 1950. The trail was only mapped for trekkers in 2011 and officially named the Maurice Herzog Trail in 2020. Read the full story in my North ABC Trek guide.
Altitude and Difficulty
The two base camps sit at almost the same height, but you get there very differently.
On North ABC, you start at Humkhola (about 2,840 m) and climb about 1,350 m in roughly 22 km. Many people do it in 1 or 2 days. That is a lot of height in a short time, so altitude sickness is the main risk. The trail itself is not technical, but it is rough in places and can freeze in late autumn.
On ABC, the climb is spread over several days. The hard part is the endless stone staircases, especially around Chhomrong, which are tough on knees. The gradual climb gives your body more time to adjust.
Winner for beginners: ABC, because the altitude gain is gentler. North ABC is fine for fit beginners who take 4 days instead of 2.
Days Needed
North ABC is short. From Humkhola you can reach the base camp and come back in 2 days if you are fast, as we were. A comfortable plan is 3 nights and 4 days. Add a travel day each way from Pokhara.
ABC usually needs 5 to 8 days of walking from the roadhead, depending on your route and pace.
Winner for short holidays: North ABC.
Cost
Our 2-day North ABC trip cost about NPR 7,300 per person from Kathmandu to Beni, including buses, a shared jeep, one night’s stay and lunch. The expensive part is the jeep from Tatopani to Humkhola, at NPR 8,000 per vehicle. Share it and North ABC becomes very cheap.
ABC has cheaper transport from Pokhara but needs more nights on the trail. More nights means more spent on rooms and meals, and prices climb as you go higher.
Winner on budget: North ABC, if you share the jeep.
Views and Scenery
North ABC gives you the wild north face of Annapurna I, hanging glaciers, Tilicho Peak and the Nilgiri range. On the way up you get the turquoise Mistri Khola, Phutphute waterfall and the glacier-fed Panchakunda Lake. From the old base camp, the ice and snow wrap all the way around you.
ABC is famous for the Annapurna Sanctuary. You stand in a bowl of giants: Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and the fishtail summit of Machhapuchhre. The forests, villages and rhododendrons on the way are some of the prettiest in Nepal.
Winner: a tie. North ABC feels wilder. ABC feels grander.
Accommodation and Food
On North ABC you stay in simple homestays and seasonal tea houses. We paid NPR 1,800 per person at Gufaphant and had veg khana, hot tea and a bonfire. Beds are limited and fill up in busy weeks, and some trekkers have ended up sleeping outside. See my guide on where to stay on the North ABC Trek.
On ABC there are proper tea houses in every village, with long menus, bakeries in places and paid hot showers and Wi-Fi.
Winner for comfort: ABC.
Crowds
ABC is one of Nepal’s busiest treks in October, November, March and April. North ABC is much quieter for most of the year, but it has become very popular with Nepali trekkers, especially in spring. Around 6,000 domestic trekkers walked it in spring 2025.
Winner for solitude: North ABC, outside spring weekends and festival holidays.
Getting There
ABC trailheads are a short drive from Pokhara. North ABC needs a long bus ride up the Kali Gandaki gorge to Tatopani, then a hired 4WD jeep on a rough track to Humkhola. The road can be damaged after floods. Read my guide on how to reach Humkhola.
Winner for easy access: ABC.
So, North ABC or ABC?
Pick North ABC if you:
- Have only 3 to 5 days, including travel
- Want something new, raw and less developed
- Love glacier lakes and wild valleys
- Are fit and willing to take the altitude seriously
Pick ABC if you:
- Are new to trekking and want a gradual climb
- Want comfortable tea houses and plenty of food choices
- Want to see the Annapurna Sanctuary and Machhapuchhre up close
- Have a week or more
Can’t decide? Do both on separate trips. They start from different valleys, and each shows you a very different face of the same mountain. If you like quieter trails, also look at the Mardi Himal trek on the Pokhara side.
FAQs: North ABC vs ABC
What is the difference between North ABC and ABC?
North ABC is on the Myagdi side of Annapurna I and follows the 1950 French route from Humkhola. ABC is on the Pokhara side and climbs into the Annapurna Sanctuary. They reach different base camps under the same mountain.
Which is higher, North ABC or ABC?
North ABC is slightly higher at about 4,190 m, with the old base camp at about 4,310 m. ABC is at 4,130 m.
Which is easier, North ABC or ABC?
ABC is easier on the body because the climb is spread over more days. North ABC is shorter but gains height quickly, which makes altitude sickness more likely.
Which is cheaper, North ABC or ABC?
North ABC is usually cheaper because it takes fewer days. Our 2-day trip cost about NPR 7,300 per person from Kathmandu to Beni, sharing the jeep.
How many days do North ABC and ABC take?
North ABC takes 2 to 4 days on foot from Humkhola. ABC usually takes 5 to 8 days on foot from the roadhead.
Do North ABC and ABC need the same permits?
Yes. Both are in the Annapurna Conservation Area. Foreigners need an ACAP permit, a TIMS card and a licensed guide. Nepali citizens should carry ID.
