Nepal is a country blessed with immense natural beauty and cultural diversity. While the popular trekking routes of Annapurna, Everest and Langtang are well-known, there exist numerous relatively unexplored gems across the country that remain off the radar for most travelers. One such hidden trekking paradise is the Far West region, with its remote mountain villages, stunning Himalayan vistas and unique culture.
I recently had the privilege of embarking on an incredible 11-day trek to Mt. Api Base Camp and Kali Dhungaa Lake in the picturesque district of Darchula, one of the most remote regions of Far West Nepal. Join me as I recount this life-changing experience exploring the majestic beauty of this lesser-known corner of Nepal and its warm, welcoming people.
Beginning the Journey in Attariya
Our journey commenced from Kathmandu, with myself and four fellow adventurers boarding an overnight bus to Attariya, our initial destination in Kailali district. Two friends from Thailand were part of our group, along with two enthusiastic sisters – quite an international and excited bunch!
The bus wound its way along the zig-zagging hilly roads as we traveled west, the air getting markedly cooler as we gained altitude. Reaching Ganna the next morning, we switched to a jeep for the final leg to Selbisa, crossing the Mahakali River to arrive in Paribagar, the last point accessible by motor vehicles in Darchula district.
After securing lodging arranged by a local contact, we immediately set out to attend the Bisu Festival in Guljaar village, a 3-hour uphill trek away. This lively event proved the perfect introduction to the culture of the region. But more on the festival itself in another post!
Entering the Api Himal Rural Municipality
The next morning our real trek began. Compared to previous hikes, our backpacks felt heavier right from the start. But we trudged along resolutely, following the riverbank flanked by hills reminiscent of Lower Dolpa district.
Passing Marma village, we were soon in the Api Himal Gaupalika (rural municipality), where a chance encounter led us to meet Bharat Dhami, who kindly arranged local guides and lodging for the night in Makarigaad village.
The steep climb leaving the settlement tested our stamina, but was merely a precursor for the toughest uphill stretch of the entire trek coming up. For now, we paused to soak in the landscape, the Chamelia River (as the locals call the Mahakali) flowing serenely beside us.
Breathtaking Mountain Views and Quintessential Villages
Parting ways with our guide Chandra Singh Dhami, who had accompanied us thus far, we began the next grueling phase – a direct ascent from 1900m to 3500m.
Finally surmounting the pass, the floral scenery improved dramatically, with rhododendrons of kinds I’d never seen before. The surrounding mountain panoramas were increasingly spectacular. Reaching Ghusaa village as dusk fell, we received a warm reception by villagers.
Setting out from Ghusaa the next morning, we were plunging directly into the wilderness, without a soul in sight for hours. The path was arduous but richly rewarding, with gushing waterfalls, strange animal bones and glaciers revealing themselves around each bend.
Arriving at the Dumola Temple, located at the river confluence of the Chamelia and Dumola Rivers, our guide explained its religious significance and cautioned us to tread carefully while offering prayers.
Navigating Snow and Ice toReach Mt. Api Base Camp
With over two-thirds of the hike behind us, the weather suddenly deteriorated. Light rain eventually turned to snowfall, lending an ethereal beauty to the landscapes blanketed white.
We finally stumbled into Dhauli Odaar as darkness enveloped our surroundings. Quickly setting up camp and building a fire, we appreciated the opportunity to rest our weary limbs.
The next morning revealed the splendor of Dhauli Odaar’s grasslands and peaks encircling us. Our destination Mt. Api played hide and seek behind passing clouds.
Setting out after lunch, clear skies and bright sunshine rejuvenated our spirits. Alpine flowers carpeted the trail, which meandered between bubbling creeks and waterfalls cascading from glaciers above.
After two hours of walking, we finally reached Mt. Api Base Camp, nestled between the soaring peak and other snow-capped mountains. My first glimpse of this mythical spot left me awestruck!
Pushing Our Limits to Kail Dhungaa Lake
But the day’s adventures were far from over. Sudeep, our 19-year old guide nonchalantly mentioned that Kali Dhungaa Lake was just over the next ridge.
Several spine-breaking hours later, we were still climbing uphill in thin air, the lake nowhere in sight. Ready to abandon the quest, we persevered with our last scraps of energy. And then suddenly it revealed itself in all its glory!
Perched at over 4000m, the frozen waters of Kali Dhungaa, surrounded by icy white terrain, felt like the crowning jewel of this demanding yet immensely fulfilling hike.
Fond Farewells and Plans toReturn
Throughout the trek, our guides Sudeep and Mahadev went above and beyond in caring for our group. Their maturity and good humor despite their youth inspired us deeply.
Bidding them a teary goodbye in Ghusaa, we promised to stay in touch over social media. Meeting Mahadev’s family and savoring a home-cooked meal was the perfect way to end our memorable encounter with Darchula’s people.
While development initiatives are visible, Darchula remains remote with limited infrastructure. But the natural and cultural treasures hidden here make it a destination with immense tourism potential.
The warmth, humility and intimacy we experienced revealed the universality of Nepali hospitality and ‘Nepaleseness’, no matter how far flung the region. Darchula will forever hold special place in my heart. I eagerly await the day I can return to this captivating land that feels like an undiscovered Shangri-La!
5 Key Takeaways from this Trek to Darchula’s Mt. Api and Kali Dhungaa Lake
- Darchula district in Far West Nepal offers spectacular mountain scenery rivalling popular trekking areas, with far fewer tourists.
- Treks to Mt. Api Base Camp and Kali Dhungaa Lake reveal the region’s cultural and natural diversity.
- The remote villages showcase quintessential Nepali hospitality and provide a window into indigenous Khas culture.
- Hardy local guides like Sudeep and Mahadev enhance the experience through their knowledge, compassion and companionship.
- Challenging the body through extreme ascents to heights over 4000m builds grit and inner strength.
I hope you enjoyed this virtual journey to a relatively unexplored part of Nepal! Let me know in the comments if this has inspired you to visit Darchula yourself someday. I highly recommend adding it to your Nepal travel bucket list.
